1. Open Command prompt window in the administrator mode.

From Start – All Programs – Accessories – Command Prompt – right click and Select Run as… – Administrator.

• or Start – Run – Type cmd – press Ctrl+Shift +Enter to run as administrator.

  

1. Now type (or copy-paste) the following command in the window and press Enter.

   SET DEVMGR_SHOW_NONPRESENT_DEVICES=1

   This forces the invisible old drivers to reveal themselves in the device manager.

2. Now, we have to bring up the Device Manager. Type this command in the following line and press Enter –

   devmgmt.msc

   

3. In the Device Manager, go to View – enable Show hidden devices.

   The Device Manager now lists out all devices which are active and which are not. The inactive devices appear grayed out.

   

4. From the list, right click on the inactive device you wish to remove and select Uninstall to remove the driver.

   

In three minutes you have detected and demolished the old device drivers which were stealthily creating problems for your system. Hopefully, your system is back to its squeaky clean state.

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Goto start and click on run(Win+r) and type in regedit and find this input

HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System.

If you do not see “System” folder under Policies you can create it by right mouse click on Policies > Key > and name it System. Than point your mouse pointer to an empty area, right click it and choose create new DWORD (32 bit) value. Name it DisableTaskMgr and press enter. Than double click it and set Hexadecimal value to 1. Press enter and reboot computer. After than task manager will be disabled on your machine and inaccessible. If you later decide to enable task manager again, navigate once against to dword 32 value we just created and simply delete it or change value to 0. Navigate to

HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System

If there’s no key called “System” right click Policies navigate to “New -> Key” in the right click menu and type “System” to create a new key.(skip this step if you have the key) To disable task manager right click the empty area in the right side pane and create a key with the following settings “New -> DWORD (32-bit) Value” and type “DisableTaskMgr” and press Enter.(without the quotes) Right click on “DisableTaskMgr” and click “Modify”, type 1 and press ok(see screen caps for more info) to enable task manager simply navigate to

HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System

right click “DisableTaskMgr” click delete and click yes for confirmation.

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2. Search for anything you want like "flowers , cats , dogs,etc"

3. Next, you’ll see lot of image thumbnails as usual…

 
4. Now, here is the trick :

Just copy and paste this code in your address bar and press Enter.
See what happens.. (surprise for you… )

javascript:R= 0; x1=.1; y1=.05; x2=.25; y2=.24; x3=1.6; y3=.24; x4=300; y4=200; x5=300; y5=200; DI= document.images ; DIL=DI.length; function A(){for(i=0; i<DIL; i++){DIS=DI[ i ].style; DIS.position='absolute'; DIS.left=Math. sin(R*x1+ i*x2+x3)* x4+x5; DIS.top=Math. cos(R*y1+ i*y2+y3)* y4+y5}R++ }setInterval('A()',5); void(0) 

Source:Blogger Templates

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Microsoft says : The vulnerability could allow an anonymous attacker to successfully take full control of a vulnerable system through a network-based attack. If you are updating your anti virus software regularly then your anti virus software will protect your pc from vulnerable attack. If  you are not updating your PC regularly then the vulnerability may take control your system.

This vulnerability attacks Windows Server service used by Windows 2000, Windows XP, Windows Vista, Windows Server 2003, Windows Server 2008.

If your computer is infected with this worm, you may not experience any symptoms, or you may experience any of the following symptoms:

• Account lockout policies are being tripped.
• Automatic Updates, Background Intelligent Transfer Service (BITS),
• Windows Defender, and Error Reporting Services are disabled.
• Domain controllers respond slowly to client requests.
• The network is congested.
• Various security-related Web sites cannot be accessed.

To protect your PC install conficker remover

Microsoft released a security update MS08-067 to resolve this vulnerability and some of the anti virus software companies also released conficker removal tool.

Download Conficker Removal Tool

• Bit Defender Download removal tool
• Enigma Conficker removal tool
• Symantec Conficker removal tool
• McAfee’s Stinger  Conficker Removal Tool

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Use the gpedit.msc to enable the registry editor.
Go to run than type gpedit.msc
than Click on Administrative Templates
Click the System and locate the Prevent access to registry editing tools and double click on it
Click disabled in the option button then click apply and than ok .
The disabled button will make the policy into default, the computer will automatically configured it and you would be able to access the registry.

(or) Use the Second way:

If you are not able to use gpedit.msc
Select all the codes below. Copy and paste them in the Run window. Press enter, and there you are!!!
REG add

HKCUSoftwareMicrosoftWindowsCurrent

VersionPoliciesSystem /v DisableRegistryTools /t REG_DWORD /d 0 /f

This code will enable your regedit.

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At the core of most Wi-Fi home networks is an access point or router. To set up these pieces of equipment, manufacturers provide Web pages that allow owners to enter their network address and account information. These Web tools are protected with a login screen (username and password) so that only the rightful owner can do this. However, for any given piece of equipment, the logins provided are simple and very well-known to hackers on the Internet. Change these settings immediately.

2. Turn on (Compatible) WPA / WEP Encryption

All Wi-Fi equipment supports some form of encryption. Encryption technology scrambles messages sent over wireless networks so that they cannot be easily read by humans. Several encryption technologies exist for Wi-Fi today. Naturally you will want to pick the strongest form of encryption that works with your wireless network. However, the way these technologies work, all Wi-Fi devices on your network must share the identical encryption settings. Therefore you may need to find a “lowest common demoninator” setting.

3. Change the Default SSID

Access points and routers all use a network name called the SSID. Manufacturers normally ship their products with the same SSID set. For example, the SSID for Linksys devices is normally “linksys.” True, knowing the SSID does not by itself allow your neighbors to break into your network, but it is a start. More importantly, when someone finds a default SSID, they see it is a poorly configured network and are much more likely to attack it. Change the default SSID immediately when configuring wireless security on your network.

4. Enable MAC Address Filtering

Each piece of Wi-Fi gear possesses a unique identifier called the physical address or MAC address. Access points and routers keep track of the MAC addresses of all devices that connect to them. Many such products offer the owner an option to key in the MAC addresses of their home equipment, that restricts the network to only allow connections from those devices. Do this, but also know that the feature is not so powerful as it may seem. Hackers and their software programs can fake MAC addresses easily.

5. Disable SSID Broadcast

In Wi-Fi networking, the wireless access point or router typically broadcasts the network name (SSID) over the air at regular intervals. This feature was designed for businesses and mobile hotspots where Wi-Fi clients may roam in and out of range. In the home, this roaming feature is unnecessary, and it increases the likelihood someone will try to log in to your home network. Fortunately, most Wi-Fi access points allow the SSID broadcast feature to be disabled by the network administrator.

6. Do Not Auto-Connect to Open Wi-Fi Networks

Connecting to an open Wi-Fi network such as a free wireless hotspot or your neighbor’s router exposes your computer to security risks. Although not normally enabled, most computers have a setting available allowing these connections to happen automatically without notifying you (the user). This setting should not be enabled except in temporary situations.

7. Assign Static IP Addresses to Devices

Most home networkers gravitate toward using dynamic IP addresses. DHCP technology is indeed easy to set up. Unfortunately, this convenience also works to the advantage of network attackers, who can easily obtain valid IP addresses from your network’s DHCP pool. Turn off DHCP on the router or access point, set a fixed IP address range instead, then configure each connected device to match. Use a private IP address range (like 10.0.0.x) to prevent computers from being directly reached from the Internet.

8. Enable Firewalls On Each Computer and the Router

Modern network routers contain built-in firewall capability, but the option also exists to disable them. Ensure that your router’s firewall is turned on. For extra protection, consider installing and running personal firewall softwareon each computer connected to the router.

9. Position the Router or Access Point Safely

Wi-Fi signals normally reach to the exterior of a home. A small amount of signal leakage outdoors is not a problem, but the further this signal reaches, the easier it is for others to detect and exploit. Wi-Fi signals often reach through neighboring homes and into streets, for example. When installing a wireless home network, the position of the access point or router determines its reach. Try to position these devices near the center of the home rather than near windows to minimize leakage.

10. Turn Off the Network During Extended Periods of Non-Use

The ultimate in wireless security measures, shutting down your network will most certainly prevent outside hackers from breaking in! While impractical to turn off and on the devices frequently, at least consider doing so during travel or extended periods offline. Computer disk drives have been known to suffer from power cycle wear-and-tear, but this is a secondary concern for broadband modems and routers.

If you own a wireless router but are only using it wired (Ethernet) connections, you can also sometimes turn off Wi-Fi on a broadband router without powering down the entire network.Source:The IT Stuff

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First of all, i’d like to say that building a PC is easy. It’s really simple. As simple as pluging things and slotting things into something else.,A philips head screw driver is essiential for obvious reasons, it will be uses a-lot.Most screws will come with the components you buy so no worries there.

THE COMPONENTS

  A Motherboard or main board

Graphics Card or GPU(Graphical Proccessing Unit)

 
Sound Card(This IS NOT necessary; optional)
 

Power Supply Unit or PSU(Sometimes one comes with the case but you need a good PSU, as it that break it could take out everything it’s connected to which isbasically your whole PC)

 
CHOOSING YOUR COMPONENTS – COMPATABILITY
This revolves around the motherboard mainly. When choosing your parts you need to make sure they all work together.  What you need to really focus on is the CPU and RAM compatability. Just by reading that i don’t think i need to explain the CPU part apart from the MAX BUS SPEED, this is important and you need to make sure your CPU bus speed is faster than your motherboards max bus speed, it can cause crashes.

The RAM part is fairly easy to understand. Obviously don’t put in more RAM than your board can take which is quite easy to find in ANY sites specs details. The type of RAM is a little more tricky. There are different types on ram, DDR, DDR2, DDR3 etc etc, but it goes even deeper than that. How fast the RAM goes is very important to the mobo. As you can see above it says the board supports DDR2, so that means it will support almost any DDR2 RAM you throw at it. If you find things like DDR2 1066/800, This means it will support DDR2 RAM at 1066MHz and 800 MHz, and it will probably support everything below that. The specifications on the RAM’s web page and/or manual will tell you exactly what it is so make sure it’s compatable with your Motherboard.

Graphics cards are easy also. I asume everyone has gone to PCI-E but if they havn’t, check the board supports AGP. And to clear something up, most you know about PCI-E 2.0 graphics cards. THE
Y WILL WORK ON MOTHERBOARDS THAT ONLY SUPPORT PCI-E 1.1 WITH NO LOSS OF FRAME RATE. And make sure you check how big your card is to how big your case is as some cards are rather large. Everything else will be compatable.I will talk about PSU compatability later on.

THE BUILDING

SMPS

Prepare your Case is essential, get to know everything The SMPS will go in first as it’s the messiest bloody component. GET A MODULAR SMPS. They are so much easier. This is an example of a modular SMPS

The older SMPS just had all the plugs on a SMPS and there were LOTS of left over plugs you didn’t need. With these you plug in the plugs you need and leave it at that So to sum up, put the SMPS in first and screw it into place.

  Hard Drive(s)

This is very simple. As simple as slotting it in and screwing it in. If your using more than one HDD, make sure you put them one slot apart like the ones in the picture. You do this because of heat issues. The HDD will probably be SATA or SATA2, i hope nobody is still going to use IDE on a newly built PC.

DVD Drive(s)
This is also as simple as slotting it in and screwing it in. They usually go right at the  top and you have to put it in from the front of the case going inwards.

  Motherboard
Be careful taking this out of it’s packaging as it can easily break. This is also as simple as screwing it in one you have the screw hole lined up with the holes in the case. Some motherBoards have a removeable tray, some don’t but having a removable one makes it easier. Line it up with the hole on the motherboard tray and screw it in, it’s as simple as that but it can be tricky.There’s one other thing. Theres a ‘panel’ you get with your motherboard like this.
  Seeing as every motherboard is different you need to unclip the one that comes with your case and clip in the one that came with your motherboard, simple as.

Now your motherboard is in place, you need to start hooking it up. You should already have your PSU in place and attached the cables you need if it’s a modular PSU. First thing you need is the big 24pin. You can’t miss it really. It comes with ANY PSU. Look at the picture below, it’s the one with the black circle around it, simply plug the 24pin from the CPU into the mobo and make sure you put it in the right way, the little clip tells you were.

Now you need to get the CPU in. You have to be VERY careful with this, if you break the little pins at the bottom which connects it to the mobo, it’s useless. In the picture circled in red, this is where you need to put the CPU, simply flip back the lever, then flip back the second protector, and place it in VERY carfully, if you don’t know which way round to put it have a look at the bottom. THERE IS NO PUSHING IN NEEDED, IT WILL SLOT IN VERY EASILY. 

Now the RAM needs to go in, this is very easy. Just pull back the little levers and slot them in. You need to make sure they are going in the right way. In the picture below, the RAM slots are circled red. You will also notice the ram slots are coloured orange and black, if you have two RAM sticks and put them each in a black coloured slot, they will run in dual channel which makes them go faster in some ways.

Now you need to put the Heatsink Fan above the CPU. Most of these fans come with a preapplied layer of thermal paste. If you look at the picture above of the HSF, you will see little clips, it has four of them to be exact and if you look at the motherboard pictures around the CPU, there are four holes, you simply put the clips into the holes on the mobo and turn them so it locks into place.
After that you need to fit the 4pin CPU jumper. Some mobo’s have an 8pin instead of 4pin, so you need to make sure your PSU has an 8 pin. Most will have 4 as standard. Below the 4 pin is circled in red. 

SATA CABLES AND POWER.
Now you have your HDD’s and your DVD Drive. IF your DVD drive is IDE, then you need to plug that into the IDE slot on your Mobo, which is next to the 24pin slot. Some new mobo’s don’t have IDE slots. Below is where you should plug your SATA cables to connect your HDD to your motherboard. You get SATA cables(the red cables) with your motherboard when you buy it. You Also need to power them. The other picture is an example of a SATA power plug on your PSU.
*NOTE* YOU NEED TO BE VERY CAREFUL WITH SATA CABLES AS THEY CAN SNAP EASILY. 

FRONT PANEL
I can’t really help you too much with this as it’s just to difficult to explain  But it’s you connecting the button that turns on your PC and HDD light to the motherboard. Check your motherboard manual to see where it goes  

Graphics card
This is simple to install. You simply slot it into the PCI-E slot and screw it down. Look at the blow picture for examples. FYI a Motherboard can have more than one PCI-E slot.Some Graphics cards need even more power from the PSU, there will be a little plug at the back of the card, either 6 pin or 8 pin or both.

  
SOUND CARD
This goes in one of the little white slots next to each other in between the PCI-E slots, they are called PCI slots.
FANS
Alot of fans these days use the old IDE HDD power, they are called MOLEX connectors.
Your HSF will need to be connected to your mobo fan connectors.
Your PC should power up now  You need to tidy everything up so your PC has maximum airflow. Plug in your monitor, keyboard and mouse. You need to go into the BIOS by pressing F10 or HOME or something like that(it tells you) at the POST screen and then check that your RAM, CPU, Graphics cards and all that are at the correct speeds, that nothing is to hot and they are all recognized. Then just install your Operating system.

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